Flora between islands change notably, one to the next. Some are sandy with colorful foliage (North Seymore or Santa Cruz), others rocky and with high craggy cliffs (South Plaza). Some with huge lava flows (Santiago) and little to no wildlife – a reminder that the archipelago is a volcanic chain. Bartholomew Island is spectacularly barren – spotted only two small and colorful cacti – amazing they could grow there. And then there were sandy white beaches – the picture perfect deserted island (Cerro Dragon).
No matter how barren the island, the fauna was never far. Frigate Birds, the pirates of the Galapagos, were omnipresent. With a magnificent black wingspan and red throat pouch on the males, they hover ominously behind the boat, and are always overhead when on land. Also trailing the catamaran by day: a 7-foot white tipped shark. Certainly kept many from enjoying our first snorkeling expedition in the afternoon, and prompted an unexpected visit by a young sea lion to bask in the safety of the back of the boat later that evening while another 3 sharks circled.
Sally Lightfoot Crabs greeted us at most of our landings, wet or dry. While the scent of Sea Lions greeted us at nearly every island, large or small, they blend in with rocks until they move. In some cases they waddling up to within a foot or two of us! Small ones slept as if totally unconscious – with no fear of humans. Moving with a bit more trepidation were the marine iguanas (always black and usually huddled in groups to keep warm) and land iguanas. The latter are yellow, typically alone, very large and old. We saw several estimated at 70 years old. On one excursion we saw a fine example of Survival of the Fittest when a very large land iguana perched itself on a boulder nibbling at leaves on a young tree. In the next moment, our group watch in complete surprise as it decided to climb the tree which was far too young and flimsy to possibility support the iguana. With our mouths agape, we watched the tree and iguana crash down behind the boulder. Thinking he wasn’t one of the fittest, after a few moments of silence we heard leaves rustle – and let out a collective sigh of relief (and laughter)!
Highlights in flight include Blue Footed Boobies - their feet and eyes are so blue, and their babies so fluffy white! They dive with incredible speed, hitting the water from seemingly out of nowhere. We were treated to a pair of flamingos arriving on scene overhead, their color so brilliantly orange it rivaled the sunset that night. They stood feeding in a small pond, moving side by side like ballerinas, or maybe synchronized swimmers. We watched in silence for what would never be long enough, a true site to behold. On another island we watched Red Billed Tropic Birds speed by – their lean white bodies end in a long whip-like tail and were mesmerizing to watch from atop the cliffs. And dare I forget the bright yellow warblers and finches that Darwin so documented!
Back in the water, we snorkeled with tropical fish and starfish of various colors, one species I can only describe as pudgy 5 legged yellow ladybugs – black spines and spots. In a lagoon near Sante Fe island, we snorkeled with a bale of sea turtles, I counted five at one time, each at least two feet in diameter. Amazingly graceful under water. As several of us climbed into the dinghy, I heard a lot of splashing – and for a moment froze (shark?) before I realized other passengers were playing with a sea lion pup. Up went an arm! And then a flipper! Clare went spinning around, so did the pup. Clare did a somersault… and so on. Such fun to watch!
We ended our visit to the Galapagos with the most well-known resident of the islands, the remarkable land tortoise. At over 100 years old, they are large and strong enough to ride (as Charles Darwin supposedly did). The sightings seemed endless and around every bend. They were truly beyond expectation. Looking older and more ancient than they are, they move faster than expected and with ease. We engaged with more than half a dozen, fearless as they headed directly toward us en route to green leaves (or other green objects like running shoes). As close as a foot away, we watched and admired them in complete awe.
10/2011