Ramadan at Borobudur. Indonesia.

While based in Indonesia for several months, I enjoyed several easy trips. Following the paths most traveled by foreigners to Bali, Lombok, Flores and Rinca and Komodo. I then took another path through the island of Java to Borobudur, more well traveled by Indonesians and Buddhists from around the world than westerners. Having traveled to many Muslim countries by now, I was aware that Indonesia is the most populated of them, though it’s considered secular and is not nearly as strict as say, Saudi Arabia. 

This was the first time my travels coincided with Ramadan, making for minor inconveniences and interesting experiences. Being an island culture, Indonesians move slowly to start. When compounded with Ramadan, fasting, and temperatures into the high 90s Fahrenheit with the same level of humidity – well most simply sleep through the day anywhere shade can be found. Makes finding a midday meal for a traveler a challenge to be sure, not to mention humbling. At 4:30am, the muezzin’s call to prayer allows followers an earlier start than is typical so that first prayer and breakfast can be had before sunrise. These calls, as anyone who’s traveled to a developing country knows, screech through loudspeakers. There were mornings I rocketed out of bed before dawn with a start, and luckily learned to take naps in the shade too. Being comfortable meant operating like a local.  

Borobudur is an iconic Buddhist shrine and destination for pilgrimage. It appears to be giant stupa with many layers, each decorated with relief panels, Buddhas and smaller stupas. It is the most visited sight in all of Indonesia (by locals and foreigners) and its setting spectacular. As is typical with such monuments, the quietest and most serene time to visit is at sunrise or sunset. I prefer sunrise to avoid the hoards of midday tourists and oppressive midday heat. Opting instead the rise of the sun to reveal clear morning views unhampered by sunset’s gray humid skies. In the case of Borobudur, I awoke with the muezzin once again and saw stars (clear skies!). Heading out with only my camera and torch in hand, I found the far gate of the complex open. It was still dark and I seemed to be the only visitor. Assuming others had already reached the top, I stepped back to assess how to approach the climb and had just pointed my camera at the night-lit antiquity when there came a tremendous BOOM! and just as suddenly the lights that had illuminated the stupa went dark. The sound could have been my heart beating in my head, but was clarified when a security guard came out from around the corner and said, “OK, lights out, go see sunrise… ” Heart still pounding, I did. The ‘hoards’ of tourists that day turned out to be three Americans. The views were absolutely magical of the sunrise waking lush Central Java. Even Mt Merapi, the ever erupting volcano, graced our presence. 

10/2006