Scotland is Really Nice.
When referring to a destination, describing it as nice may suggest that it should have been, yet wasn’t, spectacular. Scotland is in fact, very nice. As in delightful. As in lovely. As in gracious.
Americans have plenty of misconceptions about Scotland. From the food (haggis!) to the weather (cold and bleak!) and fashion (kilts and bulky wool sweaters!). We checked it out and here’s what we found:
Haggis is not so ‘offal’ if you forget about what it is you’re actually eating. The pies were fine, but the vegetables shine. The cool fog allows for a plentiful variety of root and winter vegetables like beets, artichokes, and leeks to become transformed by a spectacular number of chefs creating seasonal delights compared to the likes of Alice Waters at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California. We were in awe of the preparation at Stravaigan and Ubiquitous Chip (both in Glasgow) - and adored dining in the 'Chips courtyard in the mid of winter. Seafood is fresh and plentiful, smoked haddock and arbroath smokie were divine, and to warm us from the inside was cullen skink, a thick soup of smoked haddock, potatoes and onions. Definitely serving more than kidney pie in the Isle of Skye!
Winter weather, aside from being cold, was not as expected. Skies were often a brilliant shade of blue, the winds were calm. When it did storm however, it blew through with gusto leaving many umbrella turned inside out and left curbside. Unanticipated was nightfall by 4:30 PM. Winter it was, so indoors it was for a wee dram of whiskey. Only Americans call it Scotch to define it from our own.
And so we turn to fashion, and while we learned about family tartans, kilts and the like, we can’t say it suits our style. We can say that every passing man wearing a kilt brought a smile to our silly foreign faces. There were few, as kilts are primarily worn for formal affairs. The subject of traditional dress made for excellent fodder when we commented on the magnificently designed tartan for kilts worn at the Hotel Missoni Edinburgh - not all agreed. An older gent commented they looked like his grandmother’s skirts. A design minded younger lad felt that the less formal truis (trouser) should be warn to avoid the desecration of the tartan. My, my… we might have to visit the Missoni Kuwait to see how Missoni applies it’s designs to the traditional dishdasha!
Speaking of what people had to say, it’s hard to define. About ninety percent of the time we were one hundred percent unclear of what was being said to us - and that was when they were speaking English! These wonderfully kind and nice people use so many idioms peppered in their speech that we were left, well, speechless. These many raised eyebrows from both sides created fabulous cultural exchanges on several occasions.
In Glasgow we enjoyed the historic areas around George Square, the Cathedral and Necropolis above. The Barras Market and all things Charles Rennie Mackintosh: from the Glasgow School of Art to the Lighthouse and Willow Tea Rooms. Forward for more, to the Mackintosh House (the couple’s relocated residence), and onward to the spectacular Glasgow University (alas, have we found Harry Potter’s beloved Hogwarts?) and the Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum. Scottish museums are more than a respite from the cold, they are beautifully designed, remarkably informative and filled with historical treasure.
Super simple, we next hopped the train to Edinburgh, which is breathtakingly beautiful from the moment the train pulls into the station a brief stroll from the Royal Mile. Where to start? At the Castle of course! And right down the mile, royally, to the Palace of Holyrood House where nothing but a history of misery was heaped on Mary, Queen of Scots. Stirling, a shimmering castle, National Museums, Dolly the sheep, Scottish Parliament and former Royal Yacht Britannia brings us to a close (including Mary King’s), but not till you’ve captured a still of Arthur’s Seat from Calton Hill.
11/2012