Shangri-la. Bhutan.
In this mystical kingdom where people seem genuinely happy (it doesn’t appear to just be a slogan), Bhutan’s people seem to have a gentle soul, captured in their every thoughtful glance, word, and action. Let’s hope it’s sustainable as tourism grows. Arriving at 10,000ft, looking Mt. Everest ‘in the eye’, it’s easy to reflect immediately on what a small speck we are in the universe.
Our 7-day itinerary was fairly typical as one can only travel by arranged tour in Bhutan. We were able to work with our tour company and pre-arrange our desired itinerary, easily customizing our trip. Everyone visiting Bhutan arrives in the city of Paro on one of three Druk Royal Airways airplanes. Really! Only three planes serve the entire country. Paro is located deep in a valley where, despite the architecture being traditionally Bhutanese, it felt like America’s movie version of the wild west. Traveling by mini-van, we made our way to the uninspired capital city of Thimphu. From there over the spectacular Dochu Lu Pass (hello Everest!) to Punakha - the old capital - on our way to the Phobjika Valley to see the Black Necked Crane’s of lore. Lore they nearly remained as we only saw three from a notable distance. Finally returning back the way we came for the trip’s grand finale in Paro: a 10,000ft hike straight up to Tiger’s Nest Monastery perched atop a karst. Physically challenging and beyond expectation.
The most impressive and memorable places visited were those where cameras weren’t allowed. Perhaps making them more special as time seemed to slow during those moments to mentally capture every glorious detail inside the temples within forts (Dzongs), monasteries, or other sacred sites.
A favorite ‘photo’ of this style was taken during a morning visit at the magical and picturesque Punakha Dzong. It was here that we were unexpectedly treated to a visit inside the temple during meditation by 100 or more young monks. All seated cross-legged, perched on a cushion atop a wooden prayer stool, chanting, all while incense wafted through the doorway capturing beams of sunlight. A truly spiritual scene with the contrasts of their burgundy robes and saffron sashes against the interior of a most spectacularly decorated temple. Walking clockwise, murals tell the story of Buddha. Two and three dimensions meet at the center wall, where your eyes pass three enormous golden Buddha statues. Every free space covered with paint of the brightest colors, ornate carvings, or gold leaf. Being completely swept away, I suddenly realized these boys were having food fights! Aged around ten or eleven years old, tossing their morning offering at each other or giggling all the while trying not to get caught by their master. And then winking at you with a big grin for getting caught by you. All the while everyone present attempting to be fully respectful of this sacred space. The only photo captured in the mind’s eye.
Bhutan’s people, prayer flags, forts, and monasteries make it a mystical and captivating place. An ancient kingdom with a young and western educated monarch trying to maintain his country’s mystique and rich history while slowly getting acquainted with the outside world. Tourism is new and limited, by design. Television is new, and they know more about us than we do them. It’s their challenge to maintain a balance.
11/2010