Shanghai Old Town (Nanshi)

Today, Shanghai’s historic district of Yu Yuan represents the old town of Shanghai. Heavily renovated and packed with tourists, Chinese and foreigners alike, it’s a must-see on any first visit to Shanghai. After several trips to Shanghai it was time for me to dig deeper. Stepping away from the Old Town Bazaar and into the old town, known as Nanshi, it is like stepping back in time (without the usual Chinese gentrification which turns decrepit into all-tourists-should-flock-here-really-it’s-old). This area was once encircled by a fortified wall and was the center of the Chinese District. The area is still divided into districts, now called concessions, where westerners lived and worked outside of the wall. Not surprising, the French Concession remains the most charming, while few remnants of the wall remain at all.

Temples and markets abound, but the photo magic starts to reveal itself as I wander west. As if crossing an invisible line from Shanghai’s shiny modern metropolis, I leave the present and step into the daily life of yesteryear found squatting at the doorstep today. Certain to be torn down by my next visit to Shanghai, the remnants of ancient (or ancient looking) lane houses are still inhabited by ordinary Chinese living in the old way on the streets of Shanghai. Basic food stalls serving everything from fresh meat and vegetables to steamed dumplings, stinky tofu and soy sauce in more shades of brown than my choices of coffee at the not-so distant Starbucks. 

Setting down my light brown latte of today, I point my camera at the present and the past, seemingly at the same time. 

01/2011