Mérida – the capital of the state of Yucatan. Home to Maya and their countless stone cities, most notably Chichen-Itza, Uxmal, and Tulum. A culture in stark contrast to the Spaniards who founded this city atop ruins of another ancient Maya city known as Thó. In fact, the Spanish built the oldest cathedral in the Americas from the stones of Thó's monuments in what is now the city’s Plaza Grande. From chocolate to churros, this is one of Mexico’s finest cultural cities – a clash of Maya, Spanish, and European influence where all continue to thrive. It is one of the safest cities in the country, and one of the wealthiest. Mérida was built with green gold – henequen - more commonly known as sisal. Vast fortunes were made, affording Spaniards the finest goods from around the world.
Today the historic center is left mostly to tourists and families on weekend outings. Like most cities of wealth, there are newer outlying neighborhoods with all the trappings that appeal to a generation who wants for naught. What remains are magnificent mansions of various European styles, wide tree lined boulevards, churches – a lot of churches, and grand haciendas that were formerly henequen plantations.
While traditionally colonial architecture of the homes maintain privacy, paint on exterior walls dilapidate in the humidity and fade in the sunshine, giving way to an immediate impression that the city has lost its luster. But to step inside any of these amazing homes is like stepping back in time to a golden period where money literally grew on trees (though henequen is more like cactus). The experience can be other worldly. A world filled with colorful floor tiles, intricate plaster and paint designs, Steinway pianos, Tiffany stained glass, Limoges, and ceramics from China and Japan. When families can no longer afford to maintain these wonders of the past, international businesses, such as banks and insurance companies, have stepped forward to maintain them as offices. Many have become galleries or museums, and others boutique hotels.
Mérida is not lacking charm, color or culture. At its most colorful on Sundays, when it seems every plaza, of which there are many, fill with activities for the entire family. Live music and dancing, shaved ice drinks in dozens of colors and flavors, snacks and sweets - oh the colorful sweets matching the intricate embroidery of traditional ternos (dresses) worn by the local women!
Come to think of it, these activities ensue most every night. Smiles of locals welcome you warmly to join them, embracing you like the thick blanket of summer heat wrapped around you.
7/2013