Like the muezzin’s call to prayer from a towering minaret, Marrakech’s Djemaa el-Fna beckons. With the minaret from the Koutoubia Mosque anchoring the southern end of the square, it’s the sprawling plaza of food and snack stalls, juice carts, story tellers and snake charmers that captivate locals and tourists alike. La Place, as it’s commonly referred to, is located in the medina. In this fortified old Arab quarter, a tangled web of streets and alleys is where most of the historical landmarks and Riad-style boutique hotels are located. A Riad refers to any sort of courtyard. Formerly these homes and palaces were constructed encircling one, and today the colors and magic of Morocco seem to seep from every arched doorway of these charming hotels. The medina is very much a living part of the city, and perhaps, it’s heart and soul, where locals live and work hard in shop after food stall after food stall after food stall.
Historical sites in the medinas are generally mosques and their minarets, medersas which are schools teaching the Koran, palaces, and Kasbahs – the fort and ramparts that surround the old city and protect tombs, the latter of which are restricted to Muslims only. Weaving in and out of the narrow lanes, there is much to look at in close proximity. Often, the eye catches a blur of details – and those details are often beyond compare. The zellij, hand carved tile work, and stucco carvings are brilliant, so much so that sometimes while admiring the inlay colors and patterns, we’d find ourselves making landmarks out of a particularly spectacular tile wall (and coveting it for future home renovation!) before stepping back just far enough to realize how magnificent the entire building may have been.
Heading just north from the Djemaa el-Fna is the labyrinthine souk. An unforgettable shopping experience where the colors and spectacular volume of choices result in sensory overload. At first it feels rambling and aimless, but soon it becomes clear that there are separate sections for whatever your heart desires. Slippers, jewelry, teapots, pottery, lanterns, carpets or anything leather (usually very thick brightly colored camel hide) in addition to herbs and spices, sweets, a cup of mint tea – or even a latte! – if you desire it, it can be found in the souk. While the warnings for safe travel in Morocco should be heeded, it was our experience from the moment we landed, that this was a magical place. The atmosphere was mystical and the people incredibly gracious, engaging, and charming. We embraced their company in the markets, food stalls, and our hotels. They were warm and generous. They were beautiful. And shared a wonderful sense of humor! It made every experience from being the only non-locals eating a shawarma in a food stall, asking for directions, getting caught taking someone’s photo (generally frowned upon), or bargaining for our favorite new slippers an incredible pleasure.
As the souk closes in the evening and darkness falls, Djemaa el-Fna beckons once again as smoke from the food stalls signal the way. Despite several incredible tangines and pastillas in restaurants, our favorite meals were enjoyed elbow to elbow with locals in La Place where we indulged on small plates as suggested by others seated at our table – in many cases they offered tastes of their snacks so we could be sure we liked it before ordering!
Intentionally leaving many stones unturned for a return trip, it was one final bargain in the souk, and one last snack in La Place knowing we’d be back… we didn’t even make it to the Sahara!
À bientôt Morocco, Insha’ Allah!
03/2008